accessories – DesignApplause

visionary barrier-breaking chicago designer virgil abloh dies at age 41.

Nov 29, 2021

above> mca chicago’s virgil abloh 2019 retrospective “figures of speech”

social media best informs us of visibility and reach and virgil abloh‘s passing gave us a pretty clear picture of who he touched. he reached dizzying levels of cultural success in a dizzying short timespan. with engineering and architectural degrees, within a decade he created two fashion brands, pyrex vision and off-white, whose market was youth, hip-hop, “the street”, and grew to interning at luxury fashion pillars fendi to becoming the artistic director of louis vuitton.

in july 2021, lvmh, vuitton’s parent company, announced its acquisition of the off-white trademark in a landmark deal that gave abloh an unprecedented new role working across lvmh’s vast portfolio. though he started creating fashion he also dabbled with graphics with jay-z and kanye west and products via ikea, nike, mercedes-benz, and rimowa. but without question his biggest statement was the runway.

he also liked “words”, “isms”, a lot of quotation marks. he liked the word “readymade,” a term coined in 1915 by marcel duchamp, the french-american artist best known for taking found objects (most famously, a standard-issue urinal) and re-contextualizing them as art, which abloh interprets as a way to birth new ideas with recognizable parts.

his approach juxtaposes hip-hop and the omnesiac culture of the internet, where the past is impossible to forget; always just a few clicks away and open to constant referencing. “it’s called hip-hop, it’s called sampling. you take a record and you make this new format of music from these adjacencies,” he explains. “we don’t exist devoid of the artists and thinkers that came before us: mies van der rohe, rem koolhaas, kanye west, pharell, caravaggio. they give us soil,” he continues. “it’s dangerous when you start naming yourself as the oracle.”

this approach is illustrated by what he calls the “3 percent approach,” the notion that you only need to edit something three percent to make it seem at once familiar and completely new, a winning proposition for abloh. “you notice a lot in my work the referencing or taking a thought and adding a component,” he explains. “duchamp is my favorite. duchamp is my lawyer.”

he is described as a visionary, trailblazer, cross-generationist, rule breaker, and genre-bender. he gets compared to karl lagerfield.

abloh was often quoted saying that everything that he did was for the “17-year-old version of myself.” “i would sort of agree i’m not a designer; that term seems like it’s for traditionalists,” he says. “tbd the new title.”

on tuesday, 30 november 2021, he was expected to present a louis vuitton runway show in miami ahead of art basel to mark the opening of a dedicated men’s store. vuitton will present the show in his honor.

above> photography by delfino sisto

above/below> 2019 mca chicago – “figures of speech” offers an unprecedented survey of abloh’s creative work over nearly two decades and pulls back the curtain on his process. in the exhibition, prototypes are presented alongside finished artworks, product designs, and fashion to reveal his myriad inspirations – from centuries-old painting to commonplace signage at construction sites. running throughout the exhibition is an emphasis on dialogue, which abloh creates through his inventive use of language and quotation marks, turning the objects he designs and the people who wear his clothing into “figures of speech.” editor’s note: the takeaway from this installation – this guy is indeed special.

[ mca figures of speech ]

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above/below> louis vuitton chicago flagship showroom during george floyd 2020 summer protests // million dollar glasses

above/below> 2021 mercedes-benz project gelandewagen unveiled – artistic, track-spec g-wagen with full race car cabin. the project that bears the name ‘geländewagen’ was supported by gorden wagener, the brand’s design director, in which despite being a conceptual creation that simulates a racing version, all the details of the suv were carefully thought out. abloh, in a statement to mercedes-benz, sees his contribution as a sculpture that meets the profile and habits of those who consume the brand and that is ready to hit the art market.

above> 2018 / off – white little black dress

above> 2018 / abloh’s first louis vuitton mens’s spring-summer 2019 collection

above> his final louis vuitton collection // editor’s video note: hip-hop befits vuitton indeed

craighton berman presents manual no4 5th anniversary launch.

Oct 29, 2019

chicago designer craighton berman‘s coffeemaker nº4 is a pour over brewer that celebrates the ritual of slow coffee. designed to be a serious pour-over brewer as well as a beautiful countertop object, nº4 heightens the manual brewing experience.

originally launched on kickstarter 5 years ago (and boosted by uncrate), nº4 is the latest iteration of his signature coffeemaker. since this was the product that originally launched manual, he decided to create an anniversary edition to celebrate. the defining design gesture of the manual coffeemaker has always been the hand-crafted sculptural glass dome, so for this edition he created a new ceramic base—available in three colors. for the anniversary edition of Nº4, we are offering plates in matte black, matte white, and stoneware.

“i know in 2019 that a kickstarter campaign comes with some baggage—will it deliver? will it be any good? i have launched all manual products this way—this is actually my 12th kickstarter campaign—and i always deliver what i promise! coffeemaker n°4 is live as of monday, and is available at an early backer price of $80. after one week the price will move to $100, with a final retail cost of around $125.”

[ vitals ]
> you can make as little coffee as a 8oz cup (240 ml) or as much as 20oz (800 ml)—enough to share
> the coffeemaker does not use plastics (only glass and ceramic)
> packaging is 100% compostable (no foams to protect glass, only molded pulped paper)
> brewing process is 100% electricity-free—if water is heated on a gas stove
> low-waste in brewing, as the filter and grinds can be composted vs coffee pods, which are rarely recycled

the coffeemaker nº4 kickstarter campaign is live until 15 november 2019. please feel free to contact craighton if you have any questions.

[ kickstarter – deadline 15 nov 2019 ] @m_a_n_u_a_l/

pantone 18-3838 ultra violet (ahem) color of the year 2018.

Dec 31, 2017

here’s what pantone marketing spins…

enigmatic purples have long been symbolic of counterculture, unconventionality, and artistic brilliance. musical icons prince, david bowie, and jimi hendrix brought shades of ultra violet to the forefront of western pop culture as personal expressions of individuality. nuanced and full of emotion, the depth of pantone 18-3838 ultra violet symbolizes experimentation and non-conformity, spurring individuals to imagine their unique mark on the world, and push boundaries through creative outlets.

prince, bowie, and hendrix.

we do like the color – enjoyed finding examples for this gallery – but ultra violet has very limited applications. not a quintessential first choice for durable goods such as furniture. in an interior, more likely to be an accent and not a dominant color. and maybe not a very long shelf life, typically a year from collection to collection.

but then again this year, a homage to prince. and bowie. and hendrix…

nina mûr goes memphis: the new eyewear collection powered by abet laminati.

Dec 4, 2017

an oft maligned genre gets a renewed respect.

on this year’s centenary of ettore sottsass’s birth, with exhibitions and books celebrating the gigantic work of this great artist, spanish brand nina mûr eyewear presents a new eyewear collection in collaboration with abet laminati, inspired by the colours and formal shapes of the memphis group, founded by sottsass himself and which has influenced many designers all over the world.

nina mûr goes memphis is a collection that comprises two lines: original memphis, featuring unique details realized with the bacterio pattern (in reduced scale) in digital print, and basic memphis, made up of monochromatic models with cleaner lines.

luminaire a highlight among many 2017 design miami/ satellite offerings.

Dec 3, 2017

above > luminaire lab² / 4100 ne 2nd avenue – suite 104

in addition to its distinguished gallery program presenting 34 design galleries from around the world, design miami/ – 6 > 10 december 2017 – offers an extensive series of collaborations, satellites, events, retail and hospitality offerings as well as site-specific design commissions for visitors to enjoy throughout the fair week.

above > luminaire’s latest design district outpost, lab², comes alive with an illuminating investigation of the future of domestic design. in conjunction with the launch of the monograph, this will be the place, cassina’s recently appointed art director, patricia urquiola will join the book’s editor and pin-up magazine founder and editor felix burrichter along with renowned german industrial designer konstantin grcic to interact with guests and sign copies.

event > cassina: this will be the place
venue > luminaire lab² / 4100 ne 2nd avenue – suite 104
date > wednesday 6 december / 6 > 9p
[ rsvp ]

above > homage to kuramata by synthesizing the familiar with the avant-garde, japanese designer shiro kuramata created a dynamic and wide-ranging oeuvre that is still celebrated today. on thursday, december 7, luminaire lab opens its latest exhibition with a look at prolific designer featuring a collection of pieces produced by cappellini that highlight his sensitivity to form an abundance of creativity.

event > luminaire to open shiro kuramata exhibition during art basel 2017
venue > luminaire lab / 3901 ne 2nd avenue
date > thursday 7 december / 6 > 9p
[ rsvp ]

above > luminairex in collaboration with neushop will host creativemornings / miami presenting designer and dj lia figueredo who will share her experience throughout her career in design, marketing, and music through an interactive talk over breakfast. creativemornings has reunited new york’s creative community and engaged the city’s creative talent, connecting like-minded individuals based on a global theme. today, attendees gather in cities around the world to enjoy fresh coffee, friendly people, and an international array of experts on different topics.

event > creativemornings / miami
venue > luminaire lab / 3901 ne 2nd avenue
date > friday 8 december / 8:30am > 10:30am
[ register ] [ free / details ]

charlotte olympia launches limited edition collaboration with zaha hadid design.

Nov 21, 2017

in tribute to the late visionary zaha hadid, charlotte olympia launches two limited edition pieces, a platform wedge shoe and a clutch bag, both featuring fluid forms in perspex with rose gold metal accents. in conjunction to these, special packaging was created to echo the sculptural qualities of the designs.

combining the unmistakeable design language of the renowned architect with the creative hallmarks of the british luxury shoe and accessories brand, the partnership began when zaha and charlotte first met in 2015 and agreed to collaborate on a collection. zaha hadid design and charlotte olympia have meticulously realised these pieces as zaha originally envisioned.

launching on 21st november, the two pieces will be available exclusively at charlotte olympia retail stores and online, priced at £1,600 for the shoes and £2,600 for the clutch bag. to mark the occasion, a reception will take place at christie’s on the day of launch with charlotte olympia dellal taking part in a panel discussion. charlotte will also be at the brompton cross store on 22nd november to sign the purchased limited edition designs.

“zaha hadid was a phenomenal person to have known and her work and aesthetic are constant sources of inspiration for me. it was an honor and privilege to have worked with her and to continue working with her fantastic team on this dream collaboration.”
charlotte olympia dellal, founder and creative director of charlotte olympia

“we are always delighted to work with clients who share our passion for bold design and pristine craftsmanship. charlotte olympia and her team have masterfully translated our ideas into reality in two fantastic pieces of superb quality.”
maha kutay, director of zaha hadid design

edward backpack from malle.

Nov 14, 2017

above > left/jack messenger bag right/edward backpack

the edward is our most pure backpack with an expandable roll-top closure, enabling the bag to expand and contract depending on what is being carried within. it features a padded laptop pocket (for up to a 15” laptop), five interior tool pockets, wide leather shoulder pads that will mould to the contours of your shoulder and an adjustable sternum strap to keep the straps secure on your shoulders.

hand crafted with our black oiled cotton (which is extremely water resistant and robust), luxurious bridle leather, an organic red cotton interior and forged brass hardware. the leather bottom makes for a more robust and water resistant bag, with heavy duty stitching throughout.

$392.21 usd

[ malle ] was started in london, england by two british designers; robert nightingale and jonathan cazzola. they initially set out to create considered and purposeful motorcycle luggage that would out-perform any plastic pannier – employing naturally durable materials, smart mechanisms and minimalist design aesthetics.

since then they have broadened their collections to include an ever increasing variety of thoughtfully designed ‘adventure accessories’, that blend contemporary design, innovative ideas and robust materials, with a unique sense of british utilitarian style.

malle is dedicated to creating the highest quality british bags and adventure accessories, from their studio in london. built for life by foot or on wheels, enabling you to transport and protect your travel essentials, whilst arriving in style.

designer gifts 2015. stewart/stand.

Nov 25, 2015

[ stewart/stand ] has gained a reputation for producing innovative accessories for men and women with quality and craftsmanship that is unmatched in material, interest and style.

above> slim line billfold herringbone black | click on image to engage lightbox | 4 images courtesy stewart/stand

above> zipper wallet pale jade | click on image to engage lightbox | 5 images courtesy stewart/stand

[ about stainless steel wallets ]
the discovery, refinement and development of stewart/stand’s signature stainless steel material coincided with a seminal exhibition at the cooper-hewitt national design museum in new york. the title of the exhibition: extreme textiles.

the material has diverse applications: incorporated into spacesuits for durability, architects for flexibility, engineers for precision and impermeability, surgeons for strength, and stewart/stand for its beauty and security.

around the time of this exhibition we began developing the material for our specific applications, falling in love with both the steel’s touch and handle. stewart/stand sensed a tremendous opportunity at the intersection of fashion and technology. combining age-old tailoring techniques, with state of the art equipment, stewart/stand ensures a thin, lightweight alternative to traditional leather; an intelligent accessory that can be carried every day.

designer gifts 2015. mondaine.

Nov 24, 2015

above> helvetica bold | also comes in regular and light

inspired by new york city, the massimo vignelli subway map and the system’s use of helvetica typeface throughout, mondaine created its helvetica 1 new york edition in blue, green and red accents to match the a-c-e, 4-5-6, and 1-2-3 subway lines, respectively. it comes in beautiful packaging that features a section of the map as well as 6 vintage postcards with images of interesting nyc/helvetica views.

[ details ] [ where to buy ]

2016 german design award select winners.

Nov 23, 2015

above> german design award installation at ambiente 2015 | click on image to engage lightbox | 18 images

the 2016 winners of the german design award have been made public. the gda is this one of the best award programs around. a very wide breadth of product submissions for cars, motorcycles, med & industrial equipment, architecture, it seems like everything. they’re also one of the best at showcasing winners in a huge installation at ambiente, a heavy investment in print and well represented online. this represents a heavy monetary investment in design. the above slideshow is a glimpse at 2015 during ambiente 2015. the german design award is hosted by the german design council who celebrates its 60th year in 2015

below are a sampling of 2016 winners.

above> lichtgrenze

category> event / light installation for 25 years fall of the wall celebrations in berlin 2014
client> kulturprojekte berlin gmbh für die stadt berlin
design> whitevoid / christopher bauder

award> gold 2016
jury statement> michel casertano | dr. angelika nollert | prof. hartmut a. raiser

from the 7th to the 9th of november 2014, berlin remembered the 25th anniversary of the fall of the berlin wall and the reunification of the city. in line with the festivities, there was a fascinating light installation that marked the former path of the wall with illuminated balloons along a 15.3 km stretch. on the final evening of the installation 8,000 balloon caretakers released the balloons into berlin’s night sky, each carrying a personal message. a moving project with enormous symbolic and charismatic power that made an impact far beyond the borders of germany. the project was realised through private financing – not by the city, which meant that there was a comparatively small budget. this is an impressive demonstration of the fact that one can create something extraordinarily effective even with limited means.

above> tentsile tree tent: stingray.

category> sports, outdoor activities and leisure
producer> tentsile
design> tentsile / alex shirley-smith

award> gold 2016
jury statement> prof. stefan diez | nicolette naumann | silvia olp

the tentsile stingray is a new kind of tent that is hung between three trees, poles or branches and floats in the air, extending the radius of experience from two to three dimensions. the occupants (up to three people) are not only protected from the weather, but from wild animals and insects as well. the form changes according to the tent’s tension, making it seem almost like a living creature. this fascinating tree tent is an innovative outdoor tool that totally reinterprets the leisure tent system. at once functional and poetic.

above> aerfast 20th anni by storck.

category> transportation / racing bike
producer> storck bicycle
design> storck bicycle / mario kuban

award> gold 2016
jury statement > johannes barckmann | prof. andrea lipp | jürgen lewandowski

for its 20-year anniversary, the legendary bicycle manufacturer is releasing selected models as a limited edition set. the models have special anniversary paintwork and high-quality components. the set also includes a platinum handlebar and a seat with special supports. the frame is adorned tastefully with the master’s signature. a polo shirt with the brand name and a certificate signed by markus storck himself round off this exclusive set. the combination of technical perfection and dynamic styling reflects storck’s authentic passion for designing bikes: absolutely functional, absolutely carbonic! absolutely perfect.

above> timber structure sports center

category> architecture
client> kogakuin university
design> ft architects / hiroko tominaga

award> gold 2016
jury statement> mårten claesson | dr. michael peters | stefan von terzi

this pair of extraordinary buildings on the campus of the kogakuin university in tokyo houses a japanese archery facility and a boxing club. the two wooden structures made of native, local woods each cover a space of around 7.2 m x 10.8 m. this is about the size of a traditional japanese temple, and these spaces are similarly open and minimal, which has a positive effect on the athletes’ concentration. the special quality, however, is the support-free roof construction, which was planned and realised based on traditional japanese wooden structures. a fascinating statement that contributes to keeping this architectural style alive in the cultural memory. the way these buildings have transformed functionality into aesthetics can only be described as sensational.

above> bentley – exp 10 speed 6

category> transportation / concept car
producer> bentley motors
design> bentley motors

award> gold 2016
jury statement> johannes barckmann | prof. andrea lipp | jürgen lewandowski

the designers of the exp 10 speed 6 achieved a fantastic reinterpretation of the british legend and a self-aware statement of luxury and extravagance on the highest level. this is particularly apparent when looking at the interior. the door panels are not covered with leather matching the material used for steering wheel and seats like usual, but instead are covered with high-quality wood. the possibilities in high-quality processing and craftsmanship are demonstrated here. the exterior inspires with a progressive/elegant design vocabulary that transports the classic car into the future. muscular, athletically shaped surfaces that are inspired by aerodynamic shapes such as aircraft fuselages and aerofoils convey dynamism, power and speed. an extraordinarily beautiful automobile that perfectly combines aesthetics and precision – and is unmistakably a bentley. it couldn’t be done better!

above> takata maxi

category> baby and child care / children`s car seat
producer> takata
design> takata / reiner nett

award> gold 2016
jury statement> prof. stefan diez | nicolette naumann | silvia olp

in this excellently designed children’s car seat, children stay both safe and comfortable, even on long trips. this is ensured by the stabile casing and the exceedingly soft padding on the seat itself and the arm supports. the microfiber fabrics are toxin-free and can be cleaned easily. the seatbelt guide has an auto-lock feature, guaranteeing that the belt stays in position, while the airpad safety technology protects the head. parents may enjoy the practical one-handed operation for size adjustment and belt fastening. a well-designed product, considered down to the last detail and visually appealing.

above> karuun® | kc collection

category> material and surfaces / innovative material based on natural rattan
producer> out for space
design> out for space / peter kraft, julian reuter, moritz fuhrmann, miriam bröckel

award> gold 2016
jury statement> nicole huffer | ruwen kaminski | jun.-prof. dr.-ing. jens krzywinski

karuun® is a highly innovative material that provides transformative new dimensions for the design possibilities of rattan. the composition of natural rattan can be understood as a bundle of small tubes, which makes it absolutely unique. the company out for space uses this special quality to inject natural filler material into the material. the result – karuun® – offers increased rigidity, fantastic bending properties, weather-resistance and a wide range of coloration possibilities. the kc collection gives a foretaste of what is possible with karuun®. and it is already an extremely impressive collection. all in all, a promising material that is also very sustainable. exciting.

above> smartintego

category> building and elements / digital lock cylinder
producer> simonsvoss technologies
design> ergon3 design / peter trautwein

award> gold 2016
jury statement> ruwen kaminski | jun.-prof. dr.-ing. jens krzywinski

with this new product line, simonsvoss offers the perfect solution for integrated access control systems. smart intego can be immediately connected to existing complex access control systems — and the smart intego manager makes it easier than ever by auto-configuring the system components and saving a significant amount of time and effort in comparison to other systems. the digital lock cylinder offers various additional functions such as audit trail, time zone management, event management and door monitoring.

above> illa kogelhof by paul de ruiter architects

category> architecture / residential
client> private client
design> paul de ruiter architects / paul de ruiter

award> winner 2016
jury statement> mårten claesson | dr. michael peters | stefan von terzi

villa kogelhof is designed to be completely energy self-sufficient and is located on a swath of land declared a conservation area by the government. the minimalist building, designed with straight lines, rests on v-shaped pillars to take away as little as possible from the protected habitant for plants and animals. the interior of the house is no less minimalist due to surrounding glass panels that enhance the home’s sense of openness and connection to nature. a great design that perfectly plays up interior and exterior, while redefining the standard for natural living.

above> notabag

category> lifestyle and fashion / combination of a bag and a backpack
producer> notabag
design> notabag / adnan alicusic, ilaria gregianin

award> winner 2016
jury statement> prof. stefan diez | nicolette naumann | silvia olp

notabag is a cleverly-designed combination of carrier and rucksack that can be carried on your arm or back, as desired. a simple motion is all it takes to change the rucksack into a bag or vice-versa. an internal back serves to store your wallet and keys. that means that everything is easy to find without having to rummage around for it. notabag transforms and closes all on its own, meaning that it doesn’t need any additional buttons or closures. if the bag isn’t needed it can fold down to almost nothing. a practical, amazingly designed product for daily use.

above> form

category> furniture / chair and table collection
producer> normann copenhagen
design> normann copenhagen / simon legald

award> special 2016
jury statement> prof. oliver grabes | sebastian herkner

form is a modern cup chair made using plastic mould casting, which is available with and without armrests and also as a bar stool in two different heights. the back and seat are ergonomically shaped and promise comfort and relaxation. form is an example of a flexible design that in principle fits on all frames – even those yet to be developed in the future. the series has now been expanded with a dining table in two sizes – the perfect accompaniment to the chairs.

[ 2016 winners ]